Annette Nielsen: “Food and nutrition remain key elements of resiliency”

New York is a source of inspiration in many ways, including the management of its food systems. We spoke to Annette Nielsen, Executive Director of the Hunter College NYC Food Policy Center about the challenges facing The City That Never Sleeps. Until recently, Nielsen led the New York City office for the NYS Department of Agriculture and Markets and she has engaged in the full spectrum of the food system including writing, research and culinary education. Don´t miss it! 

How do you spread the message of healthy eating to such a unique city as New York?   

Different platforms are essential to spreading the message around healthy eating. A powerful way to amplify the message starts with children. When nutrition education is addressed in school – with gardens incorporating nutrition and culinary workshops or modelling healthful choices on school food menus – students take this information home to share with family members, strengthening impact. 

Getting vital information to the people who need it most, aggregated in a singular location is important, too. At the Hunter College NYC Food Policy Center, we developed NYC Neighborhood Resource Guides for each of New York City’s 59 Community Districts. Up-to-date and online, the guides show where to find supermarkets, farmers’ markets, food pantries, child and family services, education and employment services, health and medical services, older adult centers, substance abuse, SNAP locations and more.  

Additionally, non-profit networks across New York City focus on nutrition education (for all ages), and health and wellness outreach. In tandem with agencies like the NYC Department of Health and Mental Hygiene, NYC Department of Parks and Recreation, and state and federal entities, collaborative initiatives reinforce smart and consistent messaging. 

We know school lessons, combined with easily accessible, up-to-date information, are even more important coming out of a public health crisis. The pandemic highlighted the important role of diet and its impact on our health – food and nutrition remain key elements of resiliency. 

A multicultural city as New York is also a victim of homogenisation?  

Certainly, the impact of homogenisation has affected New York, however maybe not to the same extent as other cities. Consider the approximately 800 languages spoken here – and with each language you find a unique food culture. Where I live in Central Harlem, I find chefs with French-African cuisine or Southern specialties, and ten minutes away in East Harlem, I find family-run restaurants representing Cuban to Dominican to Mexican fare. Whether at stores in East Harlem or downtown Asian markets, the produce, fish and meats found there reflect the neighborhood.  

Because New York City is a melting pot of people from across the globe, I remain hopeful we’ll continue to see great diversity reflected in our food system – from production to consumption. 

What are the main challenges New Yorkers face in terms of healthy eating?  

The challenges people face in terms of having healthful food range from access to a farmers’ market or grocery store to finding an available space to grow your own fruits and vegetables. Where you live, might also determine your ability to reach a store by mass transit, as not all areas of New York City have viable options for bus or subway. 

However, the major challenge for New Yorkers remains having enough money – cost of living is extremely high – and many people remain under-resourced, living in poverty. Even if you live in near a farmers’ market or green grocer, you may not be able to afford fresh, healthful food. 

What are the difficulties in implementing sustainable food policies in a city as large and diverse as New York?  

First, food, agriculture and health initiatives need to be on the platform of individuals running for elected office. Once in office, officials need to maintain the political will to engage on these topics. Working collaboratively, officials need to communicate effectively and build coalitions with stakeholders across a wide spectrum – from those in federal, state and local agencies, to non-profit and community groups to the for-profit arena.  

It’s a huge task in a large city to get people on the same page – it takes a willingness to have a conversation, all constituencies’ voices being heard, and being open to compromise to move the needle forward with a smart plan for implementation.  

What measures have been most successful in promoting sustainable food production and consumption in New York City? 

New York City boasts nearly 600 community gardens, over 700 school gardens and an equivalent number of gardens in public housing developments. Last year, NYS Department of Agriculture and Markets created a Community Gardens Task Force with a report of recommendations to increase the number of community gardens across the State. We know the benefits of these spaces include health, environment, food, and community building.  

A key initiative to promote local production was to increase grant funding for these often-times volunteer-led organizations. Now, funding is provided through a robust grant program.  

Also note, that while the NYS Department of Agriculture and Markets has maintained an office in New York City, this year marks the inaugural year of the NYC Mayor’s Office of Urban Agriculture as well as a new office representing the US Department of Agriculture’s Farm Service Agency. It’s the first time New York City has had agriculture represented on the federal, state, and local level. 

What recommendations do you have for other cities that want to incorporate sustainable food policies based on the New York experience?  

While there is no one-size-fits-all approach, there is no reason to re-invent the wheel, either. Look at models from across the country and globally and glean initiatives that make sense. Listen to your constituency; make it a transparent and open process. 

Can you share with us any future projects being planned in your institution?  

We just celebrated our 40 Under 40 Rising Stars – the first of our in-person events since the pandemic. The Center’s Class of 2023 honorees include policymakers, educators, community advocates, and innovators who are making significant strides to create healthier, more sustainable food environments. The 40 Under 40 awards ceremony also recognizes a Changemaker and Media professional. This year, we honored Changemaker NYC Mayor Adams and Jerusha Klemperer of FoodPrint for media. We’re excited to be planning a reunion of the alumni from all 40 Under 40 cohorts going back to 2016. 

Additionally, we are bringing back our in-person Food Policy for Breakfast Series later this summer.  We continue to work with student interns on research, and this fall, we are partnering with the Center for Food as Medicine, producing a summit to bring together practitioners and stakeholders to discuss, collaborate and share ways to integrate food-based nutrition interventions. 

The farm bill is a package of legislation that has a tremendous impact on farming livelihoods, how food is grown, and what kinds of foods are grown. The current Farm Bill of 2018 expires in September. What changes should be incorporated into the new version of the law? 

We’ve had 18 farm bills, with the first, the Agricultural Adjustment Act of 1933 rolled out as part of the New Deal. This year’s farm bill, projected to come in around $1 trillion-plus (and projected to account for under two percent of the entire federal budget) is in the final stages of approaching reauthorization, an important omnibus bill made up of 12 titles representing commodities, trade, conservation, energy, crop insurance and more. The nutrition title, with a focus on the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program or SNAP, makes up 85% of the bill (vs. 76% in 2018), acknowledging greater need coming out of the pandemic. 

During the pandemic, upstate New York farmers and producers lost markets due to restaurants, grocery store, and school closures. Diary was dumped and crops went unharvested, while the number of people lacking food, particularly in New York City, was increasing. Our state’s initiative, Nourish New York, provided funding to New York’s network of food banks so they could continue to purchase from NYS-based farmers and producers – providing much needed income to farmers while getting good food to those who needed it. This smart initiative could be funded and replicated across the country – a way to safeguard the viability of a state’s family farms and strengthen and secure the regional food system. 

Noting the impact of the pandemic on our collective health and well-being, as well as the importance of ensuring we have a secure and sustainable food system, we’ve witnessed increased public engagement around this year’s Farm Bill – with listening tours across the state and the country, as a focus of panel discussions, even in everyday conversation. I’m hopeful the needle continues to move in the right direction for our food system. Food security is national security – from production to consumption.